Jumat, 02 Mei 2014

SLOW CULTURE TEXTILE


In The Studio : Deborah Baronas

Deborah Baronas has documented the cultural histories and lives of Rhode Island’s textile mill workers and mill sites through paintings, textiles, archival materials and installations. Her work is held in numerous collections including Fidelity Investments and she has shown at the Slater Mill Gallery, The Museum of Work & Culture, American Textile History Museum, Fuller Craft Museum, Museum of Art at RISD and the Providence Art Club.

Raised on a dairy farm in Western MA, Deborah attended RISD and graduated with a degree in Textile Design. Upon graduation, Deborah embarked upon a career as a textile designer for over 20 years, which took her from NYC to Europe and Los Angeles before she settled in RI. Wanting to slow down the fast pace and focus on raising her family, she opened her own studio becoming a design consultant and a freelance artist, designing fabrics, dinnerware, wallpaper, and stationary.

"The evolution of my work and being out of the textile design industry for ten years now, I think of myself as an emerging artist. I had another life as a designer. I extract pattern from the imagery using stencils and dyes and layering the canvas with sheer panels of fabrics. As I continue to develop and show my work, it will keep changing. I already have visions of it becoming something else."
-Deborah 
A stenciled olicloth on the floor combines color, pattern and footprints.
"There is a struggle between fine art and the commercial world. 
I can look at things and say, 'Am I doing this for myself or because I think someone will buy it?' It's not the easiest thing. I found that as long as I make work from themes which mean something to me then I'm being honest. 
I approach paintings as textile design in terms of motif, color and how the the quality of the canvas flows. It became a lot about motif and layering an image on top of another image to make the viewer work at seeing what lies underneath." 
-Deborah 

Eric and Deborah prepare for our interview.
"When I went into the textile industry, there was a woman I met who was one of the most influencial people I encountered because she was so out there. She was the only person who would want something like a Georgia O'Keefe-like skull turned into a motif and put leopard skin in the antlers, which I did for her. My abilities benefited by taking something non-traditional and making it fit into the trend of the day and still be commercial. " 
-Deborah
Her aunt's vintage hat collection.
"I've lived in so many different places and worn so many different hats, that I really wanted to show these transitions. Transpanrency became a vehicle to show my own transition within the work and the many lives I feel I have lived." -Deborah
Charcoal drawings transformed into a skirt.

Deborah has lived a rich artistic life, which was encouraged by her parents who bought her art supplies as a child. Like the threads which wind us in and out of the many journeys in one artistic career, this painting Deborah painted when she was 8 years old hangs in her studio. Pretty impressive for an 8 year old...
Layered textile from Deborah's studies at RISD
"The best thing about RISD was being able to focus on my art. I switched from the painting department into Textiles and I really blossomed there. It was the first time I felt confident as an artist, even though art was a part of my life. A painting teacher once told me that I had a gift and an obligation to use it and I never forgot that. Whenever I doubt myself, it's something I remember. RISD prepared me for the design world, it taught me how to think and how to take an idea which is intuitive and develop the idea into a tangible work." 
-Deborah
Aside from the Mill Projects, Deborah was invited to create in a site-specific installation at the Coolidge mansion in Portsmouth, NH. It was a summer retreat for John Templeman Coolidge, who was a member of one of America’s oldest families, a long-time trustee of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts and a highly trained artist. 
"I chose the parlor where they served afternoon tea daily. I drew pictures of Mr. and Mrs. Coolidge, in addition to the other servants, the nanny, secretary, maid, cook, gardner, and  transferred on to sheer voile. They were part of the backdrop both literally and figuratively, behind the scenes making things happen, as most workers do. 
Opening night the great-granddaughter Mrs. Coolidge attended and told me how her grandmother referred to the women who worked in the house as 'her girls'. It felt a bit more endearing and changed the hierarchial structure one observes when thinking of the people working in these mansions."  
-Deborah

"The Mill Project was a project close to my heart. I watched the Mills disappear from the 1980s and '90s and felt it was time to pay homage to those workers I knew and the lives they lived over the past century in this home of the Industrial Revolution."
-Deborah
Her installations are transformative and evocative taking us back in time. Don't call them 'ghost-like', they are memories. Here are some selected views of her various installations throughout New England. 

"Landscapes can be very static, they don't change as rapidly as people do. They are transformed only when people affect them. What's interesting to me, is how people, especially laborers, transform a place by their work. I create what I know and where I've been. Transparency in my work enabled me to reduce representational themes into shapes and color to tell a story. Suddenly you have to look beyond the layers to see what is really happening, much like history itself."
-Deborah  
"At the beginning of my career, we had a choice as designers in the studio to go into the textile mill and be a 'strike-off artist', the person who makes sure what we are printing is what we are selling to the customers. I loved that and I was really in my element there. I was around blue-collar workers, my roots, reminding me of the people I grew up with. I got to learn about chemicals, different fabrics and screen processes. I went from painting in my studio to going to the mill, which was a great learning experience." 
-Deborah 
The history of the mills in objects such as these bobbins on a cart once used in a textile mill, which serves as a coffee table today.  
When you visit Deborah's studio, the one thing that you see is process. Process hangs in every corner. The layers of projects past and present form an understanding as to how Deborah works and how her projects are constructed. 
Deborah screenprinting bobbin motifs on to fabric
"You can't wait for it to happen and somehow magically end up where you want. My advice to any aspiring artist would be to embrace change and just keep going."
-Deborah 

Deborah's latest series of work will explore the tobacco industry of MA, using the abstract geometry of the barns and tobacco rows. It's something Deborah has close ties to. When she was not helping her father on the dairy farm, she was working  in the shade tobacco fields. 

 "These things have come out in the last couple of years. The worker has become an iconographic image in my work, partially due to the duality of design with manufacturing and production. That dichotomy has always been there all my life."
-Deborah








Nama : Airin Karina
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Fashion Forcesting


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